Discovering Britain

The Confluence

13th June 2019 by

The Dane is a fabulous, beautiful river, tumbling down from the moors which loom above its ancient, wooded valley. Hidden in those woods is the most incredible church in the Peak District, with many a tale to tell.

Rather than a building, Lud’s Church is a moss coated chasm. This trail explores the Church, the identity of the mysterious Lud and the site’s connection with the surrounding Dane Valley.

The river’s source is just three miles away on Axe Edge Moor. Over those three miles, half a dozen streams converge and flow into the river. The confluence we can see here, with a stream joining from the right, is a typical example.

At its source on the moor, the River Dane is about 500 metres above sea level. By the time it reaches here, the river has lost almost half of that height. The power gained from this great fall carves through the rock in narrow steep-sided ravines, known in these parts as ‘cloughs’. Typically, they have a ‘V-shape’ profile where the water has eroded through the rock.

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Hagg Farm

13th June 2019 by

It’s strange to think that the lakes and forestry of the Derwent Dams, as they are known, are an entirely unnatural and man-made landscape. But nonetheless they are a popular playground for visitors to the Peak District National Park, especially from the neighbouring city of Sheffield. The reservoirs themselves are obviously an introduced feature, and the coniferous forestry plantations which surround them were planted because of a perceived need for water purity. It was thought that human development and grazing sheep might pollute the water flowing into the reservoirs so the trees were planted as a ‘natural’ filter.

Derwent Dam through the conifer plantation © Jon Fryer via Flickr (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)

The parallel Alport Dale, on the other hand, shows what the Upper Derwent used to look like before the water engineers cast their eyes on its water supply capabilities. And the amazing, spectacular landscape of Alport Castles shows the power of natural erosion in one of the Peak’s most remote and least visited valleys.

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Snake Pass

13th June 2019 by

The Snake Pass, between the western arm of the Ladybower Reservoir at Ashopton and Glossop, is one of the shortest routes linking Sheffield and Manchester. It reaches a height of 1,680ft at Snake Summit. The road is well known from winter weather forecasts: it is one of the first roads to close in winter snows – and one of the last to reopen.

Snake Pass © Peter McDermott via Geograph (CC BY-SA 2.0)

Despite what some people think, the pass takes its name from the serpent-headed coat of arms of the Dukes of Devonshire, and not from its winding nature. The Dukes of Devonshire and Norfolk, both prominent local landowners, contributed greatly towards the cost of the Sheffield to Glossop Turnpike road when it was constructed between 1818 and 1821, to a design by the Sheffield surveyor, William Fairbank.

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The Swallow Hole

13th June 2019 by

A trickling noise gives away the presence of flowing water, the first we have encountered, since climbing Chrome Hill; but where does it go? Seemingly nowhere. In fact it plunges down a swallow hole at the bottom of that pit, whose rim is just visible from here. Get closer to the tiny stream and you will see a small pit, with a large, rusty metal disc lying in its bottom. Gently and carefully lift this by the handle and suddenly you are staring down a shaft. Unless you have come prepared for serious pot-holing, do nothing more than replace the cover. This disappearing little stream brings us to the final chapter in the story of the Dragon’s Back.

Having been built up by tiny organisms in a tropical sea, left high and dry as a playground for dinosaurs, covered by muddy shale, scoured and cleaned by ice, it is fresh water that has the final word. Ever since the retreat of the last glacier, rainwater has been exploiting small weaknesses in the rock. The water has found, found secret routes down towards the river, further eroding the rock as it travels on its journey, creating dark, underground caverns for the adventurous to explore and the perfect home, perhaps, for sleeping dragons?

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The Arch

13th June 2019 by

Travelling back to that ancient period around 350 million years ago when these reefs were relatively new, it is not hard to imagine prehistoric fish of bright tropical colours swimming through here in a warm sea of crystal blue waters. Perhaps the arch was part-exposed by the tide for some of the day, with waves crashing and surging through. Stand inside and feel its sides, worn by the passage of 350 million-year-old currents.

A little further down the ridge, you will come across a small cave, (you may have already spotted it from the hilltop); just as with this arch, the cave at once reminds me of a scene on a rocky seashore.

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Summit of Parkhouse Hill

13th June 2019 by

Congratulations! That is the steepest climb of the whole walk over with and we need somewhere to get our breath back. This pronounced summit offers an obvious place to sit, almost like a few stone stools bunched together – so take the weight off your feet. You might need something for a cushion as you will quickly notice that this limestone is very hard indeed.

The view westward is towards Chrome Hill, our next objective and at once you will see how much higher it is. Best, for now, to ignore it and turn the other way. Take in the calming, broad sweep of the Dove Valley behind you. The river’s course can be made out by that sinuous line of alder trees which line the riverbanks for almost its entire progress.

Discovering Britain

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