Natural History

Castle Cliff Rocks is in effect the last formation of the Roaches, though we are many metres below the heights of the escarpment. A brief clamber on a few of these boulders is fun and will help you appreciate why the Roaches is a mecca for rock climbers. Please do take care here, however, especially in wet or icy weather.

This type of rock doesn’t crumble easily and offers a firm grip. Officially known as Roaches Grit, it is very hard sandstone. It formed from coarse sand washed down into a huge river delta during the late Carboniferous period, some 320 million years ago. This rock is a subdivision of the famous Millstone Grit found widely across the Peak District.

The stack here has survived because this is a particularly hard section of rock. It has withstood the eroding efforts of rain, ice and wind much better than the less durable material which must have once surrounded it.

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A trickling noise gives away the presence of flowing water, the first we have encountered, since climbing Chrome Hill; but where does it go?  Seemingly nowhere. In fact it plunges down a swallow hole at the bottom of that pit, whose rim is just visible from here.  Get closer to the tiny stream and you will see a small pit, with a large, rusty metal disc lying in its bottom.  Gently and carefully lift this by the handle and suddenly you are staring down a shaft.  Unless you have come prepared for serious pot-holing, do nothing more than replace the cover.  This disappearing little stream brings us to the final chapter in the story of the Dragon’s Back.

Having been built up by tiny organisms in a tropical sea, left high and dry as a playground for dinosaurs, covered by muddy shale, scoured and cleaned by ice, it is fresh water that has the final word.  Ever since the retreat of the last glacier, rainwater has been exploiting small weaknesses in the rock. The water has found, found secret routes down towards the river, further eroding the rock as it travels on its journey, creating dark, underground caverns for the adventurous to explore and the perfect home, perhaps, for sleeping dragons?

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Travelling back to that ancient period around 350 million years ago when these reefs were relatively new, it is not hard to imagine prehistoric fish of bright tropical colours swimming through here in a warm sea of crystal blue waters.  Perhaps the arch was part-exposed by the tide for some of the day, with waves crashing and surging through.  Stand inside and feel its sides, worn by the passage of 350 million-year-old currents.

A little further down the ridge, you will come across a small cave, (you may have already spotted it from the hilltop); just as with this arch, the cave at once reminds me of a scene on a rocky seashore.

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This is one of the geological and scenic highlights of the Peak District National Park. Alport Castles is said to be the largest landslip in Britain, but it is rarely visited because of its remoteness.

The Alport Valley is made up of weak Carboniferous shales (fine-grained rocks made of mud) overlain by harder Millstone Grit. The large cliff face we see here is the Birchin Hat escarpment. Alport Castles formed when the softer sandstones and shales of Birchin Hat slipped away from the rock-face. The Millstone Grit on the top broke up into blocks and tumbled down the valley side, creating a chaotic landscape of fallen boulders. With a little imagination, they can resemble castles – hence the name.

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